Monday, 6 August 2018

A CHERRY BLOSSOM SPRING TRAVEL TRIP TO JAPAN




A  Three Week Spring Holiday in Japan in 2018
                                                                      Article and pictures 
                                                                          by John and Doreen Berg

From our 2016 visit.  View the article .
While wintering in Los Ayala, Mexico enjoying the sun, surf, hiking and socializing why would one's thoughts flow to spring travel?  Seems that for us the need to hear the screams of a jet engine flows in our veins.  Plus you mention rain or a travel destination and Doreen vicariously is on the first plane!  For her, travel is a delight and there's no point asking her for a favourite destination visited as all spots are her favourites.  One could safely conclude that she is addicted with the travel bug.  A bit of a rambler and diversion, now a need to focus on our second trip to Japan.
At this point in our lives there are a few constraints as to the countries we might visit.  When younger and healthier we simply viewed a map, read an article or two and selected a destination and we were off on our trip.  Today the longer ten-plus-hours flights are no longer desirable plus the availability of medical standards of the country is considered.  Thus our destination needed to be relatively close, within a ten hour flight time and a first world country.  Europe was discarded as we've visited it a number of times.  Central America was briefly considered but again we had visited before and felt the cultures were somewhat similar to Mexico.  South Korea and Taiwan were major considerations before we decided to fly to Tokyo, Japan and explore other areas from the ones we'd been to in the fall of 2016.  Plus the journey to Japan would give us the opportunity to experience the cherry blossom season.
The following is being provided as a framework for you, the intrepid traveller, to extract ideas and build your own journey throughout Japan.  Plus incorporate our early Japan blog to provide a wider research base.

Itinerary and Transportation
Before our departure we purchased two three-week J.R. Rail passes.  Because of the number of train rides and longer distances we would be travelling, the purchase was cost efficient for our trip.  Do research and determine the amount of train travel you will be undertaking.  Not always will the train pass save you money!  For exact train costs go to www.hyperdia.com/en money, to determine if the pass is economically feasible for your excursion. 
Our arrival at Narita Airport started with a bump.  The airport was experiencing strong cross winds and the plane was briefly on two wheels before dropping onto all the wheels on the runway.  Doreen spoke with the pilot and he said, "Yeah, a rough one and we call that a "40" landing!  Fortunately this event was not a foreshadowing to our trip.
At the Narita Airport we purchased a Pasmo card and placed 5000 yen ($60.00 Can) on it.  We found the use of the subway an easy and fast method to move around Tokyo.  The amount of money on the card lasted for the time we were in Tokyo.  The card's cash balance may be claimed when you leave at the airport.  Just go to the information booth located at every set of exit turnstiles.
We activated our J.R. rail passes and took the Narita Express to Shinagawa Station and left the station by the west exit to the street leading to our Apa Hotel.

Tokyo - four nights
We booked an extra night to compensate for our jet lag.

Highlights
Tokyo Skytree - Panoramic view from the lower observation deck is spectacular on a clear day.
Doreen climbing the Skytree
Senso-ji - Most visited Buddhist Temple complete with tourist style shopping street.
Sumida Aquarium - located near the base of Tokyo Skytree.  Excellent display tanks plus a penguin pool.
Morning Practice at Oguruma-beya Sumo Wrestling Stable.  Pre-booked on the internet.  We found it extremely interesting and took numerous, probably hundreds of photos.  Practice time was about one hour and a half and at the end we were able to pose with a few wrestlers for a photo opportunity.
Spending a day with our volunteer free guide, Hiroyuki Fujii (Hiro) visiting the Asakusa Culture Center to view Asakusa Geisha Ozashiki Odori Dance.  Doreen had researched the free performance at home and our guide incorporated it into our day's activities which included a park filled with cherry trees in full bloom and having tea in a tea house eating a thick green frothy tea with a sweet bean cake.  A wonderful day with a local individual.


Travel
Posing with the big boys!
From the Shinagawa Station to Nagoya Station by JR Tokaido Shinkansen Line, (two hours) and from Nagoya to Takayama Station (two hours fifteen minutes) by JR Takayama Line a limited Express train.  This train has oversized windows to offer panoramic views.  Very popular tourist train.  The Hida service departs from Nagoya every hour.

Takayama - Japanese Alps (three nights)

Highlights
Our shopping visit to the two morning markets plus viewing and photographing the spectacular cherry blossom displays along the Miya-gawa River.
Takayama Festival:  Explored the townscape and watched the famous 17th Century to multi-tiered floats moving through the streets.  This was part of the festival.
Outdoor Hot Pools:  A 90 minute bus trip to Hirayu Onsen to enjoy the Hirayu-no-mori Hotel.  Numerous outdoor hot pools.  Excellent experience.  Later a hike to a waterfall.  Check at the tourist office for further information and read our earlier blog as we had visited the area on our first trip to Japan.
Amazing watching the crews manhandle the
 massive floats through the streets



Non-highlights
One of the many beautiful cherry blossom
trees viewed in Takayama 
I had left Canada with a slight sniffle which morphed into a three handkerchief per day cold plus one Kleenex box per night cold.   Unfortunately the cold reduced my energy level but more significantly the cold reduced my appetite and I love the different Japanese food dishes.  Only after a few bites and I was full.  For me, a huge disappointment as we both enjoy the different Japanese food types.  My lack of appetite would continue until near our trip's end.

Travel
Purchase tickets early as the Ltd. Express to Nagoya is busy (two hours and 30 minutes).  From the Takayama Station on the JR Hida Express to Nagoya is about 150 minutes transferring to a Shinkansen train to Shin-Kobe again transferring to a second Shinkansen train to Fukuoka (also named Hakata).  A very comfortable four plus hours trip enjoying our bento boxes that we had purchased at the Nagoya Station, watching the passing landscapes and playing cribbage.

Hakata Fukuoka - two nights

Highlights
In 2016 we had a free volunteer tourist guide to visit the largest sitting Buddha in Kamakura.  Thus it was a must for us to visit the Nanzoin Temple in Sasaguri, just 15 minutes from Fukuoka.  Sasaguri's major attraction is the massive bronze statue of the Reclining Buddha, which is the same length as New York's Statue of Liberty.  It was a bright sunny day to enjoy a leisurely walk from the train station from the village of Sasaguri.  Along the well marked route passing smaller Buddha statues, as well as picturesque streams, bridges and gardens.  This statue is the largest reclining Buddha in the world measuring 41 metres long, 11 metres tall and weighing 300 tonnes complete with a beautiful backdrop of forest with varying shades of green.
The train trip from the Hakata Station to Kido Nanzoin-mae Station took 21 minutes.  A relaxing ride from a busy city through a pleasant countryside to our day's activity.
We were impressed with the overall size of the Buddha.  Huge feet!

Health Update
Could my situation become worse?  Still a terrible cough with a huge flow of mucus was further complicated with the cold affecting my lower back.  Each cough was a painful experience.  One I would wish on no one!  Choices are either go home or go on!

Nagasaki - three nights

Travel day from Hakata (Fukuoka) to Nagasaki was about two hours by JR Train.  We were pleased we purchased JR Train passes as we are saving monies because of the numerous and long train rides we are experiencing.  Train left at 9:15 and as usual we had reserved seats so no concerns or worries about finding seats.  Reserved seats are available with JR passes without cost.  Arrived at the Nagasaki Station promptly at 11:24 - right on time.  The Japanese train system is simply unbelievable for punctuality with the trains leaving and arriving exactly at the times indicated!
A short walk to the JR Hotel located at the station followed.  We stopped briefly at the tourist office collecting maps and pertinent information and brochures.  This gathering of information was a habit that occurred upon our arrival at each destination in any country.  We found this a worthwhile practice to enhance our research information from our pre-trip research plus obtaining a local map.

Highlights
Nagasaki Peace Park established in 1955 near the epicenter of the explosion that took place on August 9, 1945.  We experienced a brilliant sunny day to leisurely wander the amazing park of peace.  A spectacular water fountain displayed like dove flying left a lasting memory.  The fountain was constructed for the souls of Atomic bomb victims who died searching for water with their hideously burned bodies.
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum:  A short walk from the Peace Park the Atomic Bomb Museum commemorates the victims for the atomic bombing.  Certainly well organized and needless to say, a rather striking reminder of a devastating historical event. 
Both of us left with the thought "Was a mass devastation of human life and physical hardships justifiable?"
Megane Bridge   A peaceful calming spot to visit after Atomic Bomb Museum
The Megane Bridge, also called Meganebashi or Spectacles Bridge, located in a quaint neighborhood, is an iconic landmark.  The Megane Bridge (the first bridge built in 1634) plus others span the Nakashima River.  We spent a pleasant few hours walking along the shallow river and watching adults and children feeding the Kio fish.  A peaceful area to enjoy the quiet ambiance of the area.  Caught the tram back to the hotel.
Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture:  Billed as one of the most prominent museums in Japan!  When we started there was no English signage so we moved very quickly from room to room.  The highlight was viewing a live theatre production and had our photos with the actors.

Unzen - three nights

Our bus trip from Nagasaki-Ven-ei bus terminal, ac short distance across the street from our JR Hotel was the first of only two bus trips.  The direct ride takes about one hour and 40 minutes costing 19000 yen one way.  The best views are from the right side.  An alternate route was to use our rail pass which required a train ride then a bus trip costing about the same.  The bus trip was direct and comfortable.
Bus Timetable:                 Nagasaki              to            Unzen
                                                9:10                                        10:51
                                                13:10                                     14:51
                                                16:10                                     17:51
Upon our arrival we asked for directions to Unzen's tourist office.  In the tourist information center we obtained an excellent Unzen Walk Map and viewed the interesting displays outlining the entire national park and further hiking information to surrounding areas may be obtained.

Highlights
Just some examples of the many different
interesting and tasty foods we were served.

 On a rainy down-pouring day we spent a wonderful day relaxing at our Ryokan.  We enjoyed a private onsen sitting in the sheltered warm water with a view open to the exterior so small was the enclosure we could hear the wind and rain raging in front of us with a cooling breeze periodically entering our comfy enclosure.
Hiking the well marked paths in Unzen-Amakusa National Park.  Easily accessible from our Ryokan this gem boasted dozens of onsens and tree-lined paths, trekking through volcanic landscapes.
One of the many hot pools along
the Unzen hiking trails.

Tokyo- two nights

Left Unzen Fukudaya Hotel to catch the 6:50 am bus to Isahaya.  At Isakaya, one and a half hours later we departed the bus and hiked a short distance complete with local assistance to the JR station where we caught a train to Hakata (one hour thirty-five minutes).  Here we purchased our bento lunches before boarding the Shinkansen to Shin-Kobe (two hours and 24 minutes).   Finally at Shin-Kobe we transferred to our last train going to Shinagawa Station in Tokyo (three hours).  Upon our arrival we decided to eat dinner in the Shinagawa area as there are numerous restaurants close by followed by a taxi ride home to our Apa Hotel.  This was our longest travel day of our trip.
Therefore an extra night in Tokyo to rest and revitalize.  Turned out the extra rest day was not needed.  While we had numerous train transfers they went smoothly as we checked with an employee to determine the departing track number , walked to the appropriate track, found the exact spot where our reserved car would stop and waited for the train to arrive at the exact designated time.  Easy peasy.

Highlight 
What the future holds for us.
A visit to the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation was well worth the transportation effort to get to the Miraikan.  We spent many hours enjoying the many interactive displays, a robot demonstration, suggesting our future with robots, space travel and much more.  A time to experience varied innovative scientific perspectives.


Shimaya Onsen in Yudanaka to View the Snow Monkeys

We thought the trip would be a bit more complicated but as it turned out it was rather straight forward. Subway to JR Tokyo Station and caught the Hokuriku Shinkansen  (one hour twenty minutes) to Nagano Station and transfer to Nagano Electric Railway to Yudanaka Station and about a ten minute walk to our hotel, Yudanaka Shimaya.  At Nagano there was a short wait before we could board the train.

Highlights
Shared a ride to park entrance with an Australian family
One of the many snow monkeys we watched
 playing and eating.
Our visit to Jigokudani Monkey Park (Snow Monkey Park) is the only place in the world they can be viewed.  The owner of our onsen, Mr. Yumoto, transported us and an Australian family to the park's trail head.  The path was a pleasant picturesque walk through a forested area.  Fortunately we arrived at the park at 10:00 am and the snow monkeys had just been fed and were very actively chasing one another and searching for barley kernels providing us with numerous photo opportunities.  As the day became warmer and the monkeys filled their bellies they began to wander up the mountains looking for a shady spot to rest.  We too left the park and spent the rest of the day exploring the town.
 A short train ride to Obuse, a nearby town, to spend the day visiting museums and wandering the town center and watched a couple roasting chestnuts.  Needless to say we purchased a small bag and sat on a bench munching on hot chestnuts while people watching.  Granshoin Temple
Doreen enjoying the roast chestnuts.
has a very special painting in its ceiling.  The Phoenix is a 160 year old

ceiling painting of a mythical bird and when viewing it seems to glare in all directions.
 A special highlight for us was that three months prior to our visit our oldest granddaughter and her boyfriend had visited Yudanaka and stayed in the same hotel!  The owner, Mr. Yamoto, connected us and gave us photos of them when they had stayed there.
It was fun to receive her pre-visit input and worthwhile suggestions and once back in Vancouver to share a meal while comparing our separate Japan visits.

Returned to Tokyo spending one evening before our return flight to Vancouver, Canada.  Once again, we thoroughly enjoyed our Japan holiday.  We appreciate the Japanese culture for their care of visiting tourists always lending a helping hand, their cleanliness on the streets and in the  buildings, their excellent train and subway transportation , their delicious food varieties, and their diverse environment of surrounding oceans and Japanese Alps as well as many water sources throughout the country including hot water streams for the many indoor and outdoor onsens.



HOTELS
General Hotel Information
                *booked using Booking.com (easy to cancel and book)
                *Wi-Fi available in the hotel rooms and free of charge
                * Breakfast included unless stated otherwise and included in hotel price
                *all non-smoking rooms
                * all with ensuite features

Apa Hotel Shinagawa Sengakuji Eki-Mae, Tokyo
                * Well appointed room #1924
                * Onsen fun experience
                * Subway five minutes away
                * Shinagawa train station twenty minutes walk
                * $6.00 to $8.00 Taxi ride from Shinagawa Station to hotel
                *Cost per night $240

Ryokan Murayama, Takayama
                *meals separate - choice to eat at Ryokan (book ahead) or eat downtown
                *excellent meals at Ryokan

Doreen dressed in local costum
to go to dinner.  Kind of fun.
                *Shuttle to train station each day
                *Cost without meals - $192.68
Daiwa Roynet Hotel, Fukuoka
                *close to train station and central
                *excellent hotel
                *Cost per night $164.80
JR Hotel, Nagasaki, Kyushu
                *excellent hotel located at the station
                *central, easy to get to main attractions
                *Cost per night $153.63
Unzen Fukudaya, Unzen
                *Our splurge - Ryokan style hotel
Beautiful park setting when visiting
 the reclining Buddha
                *breakfast and dinner included in the room rate
                *meals were excellent - served in a private dining room for two
                *able to rent private onsen for couples
                *Cost of hotel per day $311.81
Apa Hotel Shinagawa Sengakuji Ei-Mae, Tokyo (second stay)
                *Returned as easy to get to and easy to explore Tokyo from here
                *Cost per night $190.50 (cheaper than our earlier stay at same hotel)
Ryokan Shimaya, Yudanaka
                *very helpful and friendly staff
                *owner provides a free shuttle to Monkey Park entrance
                *Breakfast extra (American or Japanese)
                *Close to train station and restaurants
Sensoji Temple is buzzing with people complete with many stalless.
 One of the spots we visited with  Hiro our volunteer guide.
                *Cost per night $205.77
Apa Hotel and Resort Tokyo Bay Makuhari, Chiba
                *ideal as near Narita Airport
                 *onsens
                 *avoid Chinese restaurant - poor food
                *shuttle to airport with cost
                *Cost per night $137.03
An interesting way to roast chestnuts.